Once we crossed into Arizona on Interstate 40 heading west, the signs along the north side of the road were relentless. Some were weathered and decades old. Others were brightly printed in high contrast, new and appealing. Nearly all attempted to draw travelers into a variety of unique shops where handmade art, pottery, and jewelry awaited. Our family has driven this route at least five times in the last 10 years and in all those times, we’ve maybe stopped at one of these draws. I would love to pull over more often, honestly. I picture eager vendors and beautiful work in many cases, although I have an equal imagination for dingy, tape-plastered front doors, non-communicative clerks who wish for a more distinctive way to make a living, or items that look like a thousand I’ve seen before. My personal visuals have nothing to do with this region of the country, necessarily, but more to do with the hundreds of stops I requested as a child to wander through “destination” souvenir shops or gift venues of my own choosing. They can all look fairly much the same, if you think about it.
But here, in the land of petrified wood and native hand crafts, the draw for me is particular. I know little about these cultures of the Hopi, the Navajo, and the other ancient tribes who've lived within the boundaries set, and in most cases, whittled down and re-set, for them years ago. I have wished it were different, but without an “in”, my own European forbears and early (persistent) government policies pretty much ruled out a long-term connection to peoples whose more fertile lands were coveted and stolen outright. Clear separation followed near-total decimation. The legacy determined 150 years ago has made my generation the worse for it, no question.
We drive rapidly past these vast and scrubby lands, dry sage and grasses under a vast blue sky. Away from these easy pull-offs, deeper into the “reservations”, are communities and families, cultures of beauty and rhythm, depth and history. Around them, boundaries have been etched with fences, emotions, economics. Overgrazed land, few opportunities for satisfying, creative labor, the distractions, perhaps, of a larger culture's things and lifestyle held largely out of reach, but made to seem desirable. How does any of this figure into the idea of a land of opportunity? Of forward motion for any of us? Were I to stop, would my ripple be any more than that of a small flat stone skipped across the surface of the cool, deep sea of these peoples? I sigh feebly, knowing I need a higher education even on how to move forward with these thoughts.
One particular sign makes me ask myself. just how many years has it hung to the north of these speeding cars headed west to warmth and adventure? If the native, handmade wonders – the turquoise, silver, vessels and kachinas, stone pendants and intricate sand paintings do not entice – consider instead the offer of a broad array of ancient, stony tree trunks, or better yet, in this land of mystery, one can’t do better than to find a piece of reality from beyond our own atmosphere. In this case, this sign that made me ponder longest was a blur of peeling paint proclaiming a whole new world of wonder: “METEORITES 50% OFF”.
For how many has that claim been nothing more than another flaking, plywood distraction against the multi-tiered mesa horizon?
How many have stopped to see a chunk of the heavens come down to earth?